So I returned from my Vietnam trip almost two months ago now, and I haven’t fully written about how it all ended. It’s taken this long for me to get round to it. For me, I came home early having reached a point during the trip where I decided it just wasn’t for me (see a few posts back). The first two weeks were fantastic, don’t get me wrong, and my life has definitely changed thanks to the experiences we had. I’m very glad I did it, and should such a situation arise again I may very well partake such an adventure again.
Unfortunately for my traveling buddy, he was never to return.
Matt (Mavis to his friends, and Matthew Ian Avis to the newspapers) continued on with the trip without me. Being the biker he was, he fell in love with the trails and the stunning roads. A bikers heaven. He carried on with two other backpackers we’d met before I left (a team of riders whom I had previously nicknamed TIBULA). On Friday 6th December he sent me the map of the final route for the final ride:
He knew I’d had enough of the bikes and continued to update me (and a biker forum, so I later found out) of all their breakdowns on that final leg. He was so keen to keep to the rough schedule we’d both agreed (get there 3 days before our return flight so we could sell the bikes on to other backpackers who want to ride back North).
On Sunday 7th December they completed the trip. Well and truly within the time limits. I know he was over the moon to have finished the journey. And I was incredibly pleased for him to have done so, if not a little jealous (and annoyed that I hadn’t completed it). It was long, arduous, painful, costly and life changing. But he did it (unlike me). A fantastic achievement.
Mavis died in the early hours of Sunday 8th in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam. My understanding is that they had gone out that night to celebrate the end of the trip, and somehow (yet to be fully explained to me) he fell from a balcony at the hostel he was staying at and died from his injuries. He was 33.
It’s indescribable for me to try put anything into words that explains how I feel. People go through grief in a multitude of fashions. It pains me in unfathomable ways that I didn’t stay longer and complete the trip too. It pains me that I wasn’t there. It pains me that Mavis is no longer with us.
We all suffer the loss of such a fantastic friend, colleague, brother and son. But nobody loses out more than Mavis, for not being given the opportunity to carry on with the crazy, lucky, full life he lead.
But when he was here, we did incredible things with incredible people. And that’s what I’m taking from him. Be incredible.
I tip my hat to our employer, Endemol and Channel 5, who allowed us to dedicate the first show of Celebrity Big Brother 2015 to Mavis as he was due to start pre-production Directing on the series when we returned from Vietnam in December. The entire crew (large enough that all our offices and portacabins are referred to as “the village”) have taken a huge blow with his loss. A donation was also made towards the charity chosen by his family at the funeral.
This blog covers the drive from Ninh Binh to Sam Son, an awesome resort, the drive from Sam Son to the middle of nowhere, and an awesome experience with a local family. Police checks avoided; 7. Distance covered 240km.
Total distance; 780km.
I felt sad to leave Tham at the Anna Tham Hotel. She was incredibly grateful and such a hard working young person. She runs that whole place (as the only English speaking person in her family business). So much to deal with. She was so happy to have had us, and grateful for being such model guests. She even asked me if I’d come back and marry her friend, and hopes we have the wedding at her hotel! (I even gave my address, just in case!!).
After breakfast we said our goodbyes to the Dutch couple (Eric and Renatta) who we’d sat and had drinks with both nights before, and hit the road. The journey was a short one of only 80km, so not much compared to the monster journeys we’ve done before. There were lots of smaller towns along the way which slowed us down, thanks to traffic lights and crazy no-rule junctions where kids bolt out from nowhere. On one of our stops, a security guard appeared from a factory and walked over to see us. He spoke no English but pointed to his own ID Card. He also pointed to the licence plates a couple of times. We think he was trying to see if we had ownership or licences for the bike. In the end, we’ll never know. We tried to tell us the route we were planning, and he recognised Hanoi, Ha Long, Da Nang. That kept him content that we’d ridden quite a distance already. But just in case we decided to move on, so as not to draw more attention. He nodded and drew out “150km” on my bag as indication to our next location, then waved us off. Nice enough!
We headed towards a place on Google Maps where we knew there was a 9/10 rated hotel. It was a beach location in Sam Son. But when we finally got there, both Clarence and I were quite shocked. The entire town, beach front and all, looked completely desolate. Everything was closed down, worn out, sun bleached, and wasting away. It was like an abandoned film set. There was even a mini theme park with roller coaster and tea cups, but it was truly degraded and broken. A handful of locals were sorting out fishing nets, and ladies in nón lá (leaf hats) spreading tiny shrimp out across swathes of the road to dry them out. A very strange sight indeed.
We stopped to double check the map and see if we were in the right place. When we looked up, an old man was stood beside us. He was more interested in the bikes than us. Usually it’s the other way around. Turns out an expensive (for Vietnam, but in reality only £20 per night per person) resort was just around the corner. The Van Chai Resort is a huge luxurious place with indoor and outdoor pool, gym, sauna, massage, beach front, gorgeous rooms and a large restaurant. We worked out it could probably host over 100 in the houses (they were individual little flats, like a small village), but only 6 of us were actually staying. The staff were very keen to help us and keep us pleased. A typical Vietnamese custom.
At sunset I took out my QuadCopter for a fly around the area. What I didn’t see were the workers at the other end of the resort who were building another restaurant by the outdoor pool. They all stopped to study my flying camera. They didn’t see me, so I nudged it over towards them and they jumped around with glee. One of them coaxed it like a dog to come towards him. He directed it around, and I entertained it. Fun to see. When I wandered over they were fascinated to be able to see the shot on my iPhone from the camera. I pointed up and fired it straight up over 800ft and showed them the whole resort from above. They were awestruck. One of the workers pointed out to a fishing vessel and directed me to fly it over them. I took it out over the water but lost visual with it. The downlink video just showed sea and a tiny boat, and without line of sight I felt uncomfortable. I pretended to lose it. The workers clapped and jumped, thinking it was gone. So I turned off the controller and crossed my arms, shaking my head. They looked surprised and incredulous. But I knew the QuadCopter would trigger the Return To Home function. About 20 seconds later it shot out of the fog towards us, climbing to 60 feet. With no signal from me it hovered then slowly dropped before landing at my feet and shutting down. By their reaction you’d think I’d have won a gold medal. None of us spoke each other’s language but I tried to explain it needed to recharge. There were smiles, nods and handshakes before the who,e thing was over. It was a rather interesting 20 minutes.
The rooms (or little dorms) held two beds with mosquito nets, stone slab floor, shells embedded in the floor, a huge bathroom with bath, and an outdoor shower. I mentioned this was just under £20, right? It’s the height of decadence for my experience!
The next morning we headed off. I strapped my GoPro to my helmet to get some footage. I ended up leaving it till the battery run out. In a bizarre turn of events we’d ended up taking s wrong turn. Down back streets and criss cross roads, we’d turned into a rundown slum area. Tiny kids played dice in the street, hit each other with sticks, helped their parents in the fields. Every single one of them smiling. Even though they were covered in dirt, ripped clothes, proper slum kids. And every time they saw Clarance up ahead and then me, they’d shout “hello!!” And we’d get a wave.
Waving hello and peace signs have become a regular occurrence. Though I’m still not convinced we are saying “hello” with a peaceful V sign. Online there’s blogs where people say it’s a happy way of saying hello by the younger generations. They do it constantly on their Twitter and Instagram feeds. The older generation link peace to the war. Others have said we are simply announcing the number two, as “Hi” in English is “Hai” in Vietnamese, which simply means the number two!
Several hours later we rolled into yet another dead seaside town. This had much more people, but certainly no fancy hotels. We booked something online and rolled up to find the place looking closed. The owner directed us behind the building and we ended up locking our bikes inside a desolate restaurant. The hotel was open, but it was more like an asylum or prison. Not a great place, but there were beds and wifi. No toilet roll though.
Wandering the streets for food became an experience. Clarence and his massive beard drew crowds, and kids began surrounding us on bikes shouting “hello!” and flashing the V gesture. You’d think we were rock stars. A bit too close for comfort though, so we headed back to the hotel after grabbing a bag of biscuits from some baby store. Looking defeated we headed over to the last cafe-looking place just before the hotel. An older man was sat eating what looked like potato fritters. He gestured for us to come in. I thought he was going to serve us, but he actually pulled alongside two chairs and handed us slices from his plate. I’m guessing they were mashed potato with herbs and onions in, pan fried. Tasty though!
A few minutes later we had beers, and the old mans son, Called Bee (?) came and joined us. He spoke English and invited us to have dinner with his family. We sat shoeless and cross legged on the floor, eating cabbage, fermented eggs, boiled meat, fish slices and rice. An authentic Vietnamese meal with a real family. We swapped interests and discussed football, TV, and skirted around the war. We talked about marriage and travel, and he translated the news channel for us (one story was about a couple importing 2kg of heroin. He told us they’d be shot instead of imprisoned. That’s what happens in Vietnam).
Being tired after our longer trip we agreed we’d see them in the morning before we go, and Bee said he would have breakfast and coffee ready for us at no charge. This place is such a friendly happy place…
So what the heck does one take with them for a month long motorbike trip through Vietnam? This post could partially help with the answer…
I’m not good with packing. I tend to cram in completely unnecessary things and forget the essentials. Somehow vital items get carefully wrapped and packed away in a choreography of rolling and folding, yet my phone charger and toothbrush sit idly by the side. With this in mind I took it upon myself to pack the rucksack today, with the hope I’d learn from past mistakes and know exactly what I was and was not taking with me. Yes, the flight is 3 weeks away, but I like to plan early!
Firstly, initially I was only taking the rucksack. The decision to take a smaller bag became necessary as the helmet I had already bought for the trip was coming on as hand luggage, and not going in the hold of an aircraft where it’d get bashed and smashed to smithereens. There are some forums out there that suggested I wear the helmet as I board the plane, although in this day and age I doubt that’d go down well with… well, anyone. So a second bag was decided upon, which would allow me to carry daily things on the trip too, like food and water, or easy-access items such as my Canon camera. Obviously whilst riding I’ll be wearing the helmet, and when we’ve stopped the helmet will be carried with us or stowed in a hotel room.
So what’s in the bag(s)?
Open face helmet, goggles (came with the helmet!), iPad, Canon 550D, 11-16mm Tokina lens, 18-135 Canon lens, 50mm Canon lens, 8mm fish-eye lens, 3x 16GB SD cards, 2x Canon batteries, GoPro Hero3, GoPro cable, 8x GoPro mounts, GoPro links, GoPro waterproof case, GoPro helmet extension arm, iPhone cable, headphones. Oh, and 8x screws… I’ll explain later!
Waterproof jacket and trousers, spare jeans, tennis shoes, 2x pairs of shorts, 4x socks and pants, 4x t-shirts, 1x casual shirt, deodorant, toothpaste, toothbrush, DJI Phantom 2 Vision+ quadcopter (yes, really!), quadcopter controller, 2x Phantom batteries, Phantom charger, towel, anti-malaria tablets, bug spray, H4N Zoom microphone, pocket radio, 3.5mm audio cables.
What does all this cover?
The clothing options cover me for the travelling to and from Vietnam, riding a motorbike in both wet and dry conditions, and extras if we try the nightlife. The Canon 550D and lenses covers me for both photography and any video documenting. The GoPro and all the accessories cover the video aspect of us (“Clarence” and I) on the bikes. The DJI Phantom 2 Vision+ quadcopter is, quite simply, a radical piece of kit to shoot video from the air and provide awesome shots of us on the bikes. Totally unnecessary and overboard, but wicked nonetheless.
What’s with the microphone and cables?
Well, we’re not making a piece-to-camera documentary of our travels. However, I do have somewhat of an idea in mind for a video. Of course I’ll want to share a kick-ass video with you when this trip is all over. So the mic will record wild-track (essentially a few minutes of ambient sound of a particular area for the edit process), as well as recorded sound of the bikes, etc. I also have an idea to start and end the video as if a radio is being tuned in, so the pocket radio and cables will allow me to scroll through several frequencies and capture real-life radio in Vietnam and use that sample for the video. The items are small enough to be inconsequential to the weight of the rucksack anyway.
Security is another thing that I’ve been concerned with. Clearly neither “Clarence” or I want to be kidnapped, robbed or to ride off a cliff and never be found. With me being a geek, I’ve set up some measures to help us along the way.
Firstly, both bags have a bluetooth tracking device installed. There’s also one on my keys, and I’ll likely stick one on the bike (for a giggle). These TrackR StickR devices communicate with an App on my iPhone, and keep regular track of where the items are. If any go missing, I can use the App to see their last known locations, and hone in on them. The devices also communicate two-way, so by pressing a button on the bluetooth device (which is no bigger than a pound coin) the iPhone rings. Or I can press a button on the App, and the TrackR rings. Fingers crossed these items work as they should and nothing goes missing.
One major benefit to the TrackR App is that if I do lose an item, and someone else is running the App, and they are in close proximity to a missing device, their App (without pairing) will update the last known location on my map. So something hundreds of miles away could still be found, thanks to another TrackR user and their “Crowd GPS” function.
Secondly, I’ve installed an app on my iPhone called FollowMee. This App runs in the background and updates my location to a server online. If there’s no internet connection is records the GPS data anyway and uploads it whenever it gets the chance. It’s also clever in that it doesn’t run the battery flat with unnecessary uploads as it only updates if the location has changed, and by the specified update times I choose (anything from every minute to every 12 hours).
The benefit of this App is that our friends and family can keep track of our location by checking out my blog, where an embedded Live Map will track us in realtime. They don’t need to download some “Friends” app, nor do I have to give them any log-in details or get them to register on a special website. It’s hassle-free with a link I can email them which takes me to a secure and private map, or I can choose to embed the map anywhere I like (in this case, my travel blog!).
The App can also show where we’ve been, by keeping the last 24hrs worth of GPS logging data visible on the map. If we go missing, at least you’ll know roughly where we went missing! There’s no subscription fee for this service, just the £1.89 price of the App. There is also a free version, but that doesn’t keep the 7-day history.
They also have the ability to store 45 days or 90 days worth of location data, although you’d need to pay for this separately (a very reasonable $5 and $10 per YEAR respectively).
The App works on iOS, Android, Windows phones, Blackberry and the Amazon Kindle Fire.
Of course all of this security depends on having an internet connection. I’ve spoken with my phone provider and they’ve unlocked my phone so it can be used anywhere in the world, and on any network. This means when I get to Vietnam I can switch out my UK SIM card with a pre-paid Vietnamese SIM card, pre-loaded with data and calls. I’m reliably informed there will be full coverage along the way, even if it drops to 2G/EDGE. It should be enough to keep us connected to the internet, and our locations known.
As a back-up, I’ve also installed an App called myTracks, which can either record your GPS location 24/7 or be set to short-record anything from 1min-24hrs. The App can then export/email the data and be used to trace a route at a later date. Both Apps will run for the duration of the trip. This App doesn’t upload our location, but stores the data locally.
Now, back to this helicopter… I appreciate that not everybody thinks of taking a remote control helicopter with them on holiday, but the opportunity to get amazing tracking and aerial shots is too good to miss. Yes, my friends and I have joked that I could start a war, should anyone decide that my drone is some sort of threat and it a) gets blown out of the sky, or b) it gets blown out of the sky and I get arrested. Either way, it’s packed.
So what’s with the 8x screws? Well, the only way I could fit the DJI Phantom into my rucksack was to remove the lower landing legs. All the cables stayed intact, but with the screws removed it means the legs can be folded over and out of the way. Otherwise the biggest and bulkiest thing in the rucksack is the quadcopter!
Ten things likely to happen whilst travelling without a plan in Vietnam:
- Drive on the worst roads imaginable
- Get hurt
- Lose something
- Get completely lost
- Get drenched
- Get angry beyond belief
- Fear for my life
- Throw up
- Use the phrases “this is f**king sh*t” and “who’s f**king idea was this?”
- Want to go home
Ten more things likely to happen whilst travelling without a plan in Vietnam:
- Smile so much my face hurts
- See something mind blowing
- Have an epiphany
- Laugh till I cry
- Shoot FAR too much video
- Eat and drink things I never thought I would
- Have a conversation with someone who has no idea what I’m saying
- Laugh with someone I’ve never met
- Get completely lost
- Not want to go home